The Kumano Kodo trails are one of Japan‘s major pilgrimage routes, often called the Shinto and Japanese equivalent of the Camino de Santiago.
In this article, we will explore everything you need to know about the Ogumotori-goe trail, which runs from Nachisan to Koguchi and is part of the Nakahechi imperial route. This trail is quite challenging, with over 1000 meters of positive elevation gain across about 15 km.
The Nakahechi imperial route is the main route of the Kumano Kodo. It typically consists of five stages and can be done in either direction, like all the Kumano Kodo trails.
The Ogumotori-goe can be done in both directions without any issues. Although going from Nachisan to Koguchi is easier, the reverse route is more popular. Here, we will describe our experience walking from Nachisan to Koguchi, but the direction you choose doesn’t really matter.
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About Kumano Kodo
In Shintoism, Kumano is a sacred region of healing and salvation. It embodies Japan’s spiritual origins and became a pilgrimage site many centuries ago.
The lush mountains of the Kii Peninsula are blessed with a rich cultural and natural heritage. For over 1000 years, people from all walks of life, including poets, aristocrats, and even retired emperors, have walked these paths.
The network of trails used by pilgrims is now called the Kumano Kodo. Hiking the Kumano Kodo is an immersive experience in Japanese culture, ideal for active and adventurous travelers.
The trail network extends throughout the peninsula, with various routes of different lengths and difficulty levels. The main route is the Nakahechi, known as the imperial route due to its frequent use by the imperial family, who, over the centuries, made pilgrimages from Kyoto to this region.
In the Kumano region, there are three major temples, collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan:
- Kumano Hongu—Located in the heart of Kumano, this austere temple is on the banks of the Kumano-gawa River. Its entrance gate is impressively large.
- Kumano Hayatama – Located in the city of Shingu at the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River, this temple marks the endpoint of the imperial route.
- Kumano Nachi—Built in the mountains, this temple faces the impressive Nachi Falls, the tallest in Japan. It is revered in Shintoism as a deity. It is probably the most photogenic temple in the region.
Ogumotori-goe trail
The Ogumotori-goe is a roughly 15 km trail connecting Nachisan to Koguchi. It is a challenging trail, so you need to be well-prepared. Below, we will explain everything you need to know to complete this trail.
The route’s difficulty is due to the accumulated elevation gain (almost 1000 meters in one direction and over 1200 in the other) and the 7-9 hours required to complete it. There are no technical difficulties, and the trail is magnificently marked, making it very hard to get lost.
Like all other trails in the Kumano Kodo, the Ogumotori-goe can be done in both directions. However, the direction from Nachisan to Koguchi is a bit easier (less positive elevation gain), but interestingly, it is also less popular.
Nachisan
Nachisan is a small tourist village where the famous Kumano Nachi Taisha temple and the equally well-known Nachi Falls are located. One of Japan’s most iconic images is the three-tiered pagoda of the temple with the waterfall in the background. Looking at the photos, it’s easy to see why.
Access to Nachisan is quite easy from Kii-Katsura as there are several buses throughout the day.
Koguchi
Koguchi is a tiny village where several mountain rivers converge. This village would not be of much interest if it were not one of the stopping points of the Kumano Kodo trails. Therefore, there are several traditional Japanese accommodations there. However, it is necessary to book in advance as they fill up quickly.
If you can’t find accommodation in Koguchi, there is a bus stop. From there, you can easily go to Hongu, Shingu, or even Kii-Katsura. We stayed in Kii-Katsura and loved it. See more accommodation tips below.
We cannot say if this is the best trail to take on Kumano Kodo, as we haven’t done them all. But we can say, without a doubt, that if you choose to do this route, you will not regret it. The natural beauty along the way is incredible. Starting or ending at the Kumano Nachi temple and Nachi Falls is the icing on the cake.
Hiking the Ogumotori-goe from Nachisan to Koguchi
The trail we did was from Nachisan to Koguchi, and that’s how we will describe it. However, you can easily use this information to do it the other way around.
As we mentioned, it’s about 15 km from Nachisan to Koguchi, with an accumulated elevation gain of 930 meters and a negative of 1260 meters. This route takes between 7 and 9 hours to complete, depending on your pace and stops. We took about 7 hours and 45 minutes, starting at 7:45 AM and finishing at 3:30 PM.
It’s very important to start the trail before 8 AM. Otherwise, you may risk nightfall before reaching your destination, which can be very dangerous due to the uneven and slippery terrain.
Starting in Nachisan, we begin at one of the highlights of the region, the beautiful Nachi temple and the equally impressive Nachi Falls. Allow at least 30 minutes to explore this entire area.
If you come by bus, we suggest getting off at the waterfall stop and then climbing towards the temple. You must backtrack to see the waterfall if you get off at the last stop. It’s not a long distance, but saving some energy before such a long trail is wise.
The trail begins very close to the temples, so it’s not very visible from a distance, but it’s easy to find as it’s well-signposted with an information panel.
The start of the trail is undoubtedly the most physically demanding section, as we begin with an almost endless staircase. There are some resting points, like when we pass through a park, but it’s basically always climbing, mostly on stone stairs, well-worn and very beautiful.
This initial section takes us from about 300 meters altitude to over 800 meters. Except for a few rest points, it’s almost always uphill for about 4 km. At the top, there is a great place to rest a bit and have a second breakfast. There is even a small shelter and a place to sit.
Looking at the map, it may seem that from here, we have a long, relatively flat section with some not-very steep climbs and descents. But the whole route is either uphill or downhill, often with the typical stone stairs. The only exception is the last kilometer and a half before the rest point (Jizo-Jaya tea house ruins), which is continuously downhill on the road. It’s a rest that feet and legs appreciate.
Upon reaching the Jizo-Jaya tea house ruins, there’s a rest point with tables and chairs for lunch, vending machines (drinks only), and restrooms. This is the best place on the trail to eat and recharge before continuing. Note that you should reach here around noon.
Continuing our trail, we now have two peaks to climb. Although they don’t seem like long climbs, they are quite tough. The first is especially difficult as it is almost through a stream and has no stairs. Technically, it’s perhaps the most difficult part of the trail.
The second climb is not as technically difficult but is quite tough. It takes us to the highest point of this hike, at 870 meters altitude—the Echizen-toge pass. From here, it’s always downhill, but don’t think it’s easy or quick.
The nearly 5 km between Echizen-toge and Koguchi are famous among Kumano Kodo hikers as they consider it the longest and most difficult climb of this set of trails. And indeed, it is a tough climb (and descent). It’s an endless series of stairs that, seen from below, seem never-ending.
Fortunately, we are descending, which is aerobically easier but technically requires great care, as the stone stairs become very slippery with the usual humidity and rain in the region. Thus, it took us about 2 hours to complete this stretch. It may be possible to go faster, but we were very careful and slow on these types of descents.
At the end of the descent, we enter the village of Koguchi directly. There is a small shop with snacks, drinks, and ice cream, various accommodations, and a bus stop.
If you stay overnight in Koguchi, go to your accommodation (some suggestions below).
If you spend the night in another village, you must take the bus. Note that there are very few buses, so it is important to try to match your arrival time with the schedules. There were only two buses when we went: one around 4 PM and another about an hour later. Check the updated schedules carefully here.
Signage
We didn’t include much information about route changes and signage in the previous description because the entire route is fantastically signposted. There are 29 markers separated by 500 meters, and it is indicated whenever there is a junction.
It is almost impossible to get lost on the route. We carried a GPS route on our phone but didn’t use it once or have any doubts along the way. The only doubts that sometimes arise are: “Does this climb ever end?” or “Are we sure we’ve only walked 1 km?”
When to do the Kumano Kodo?
The Kumano Kodo can be done throughout the year; however, we strongly advise against doing it in the rain, or at least be very well prepared for it. The rain can be quite strong and make the entire path quite tough.
Moreover, the humidity makes much of the stone on the route slippery, increasing the risk of falls.
Thus, we believe the best times of the year to do these trails are spring and autumn. Autumn is very beautiful due to the foliage, and spring because of the flowers.
We also need to note that summer is usually very hot and humid. It is also the rainy season, making it the worst time to go to Kumano.
Winters are not very cold and have little rain. We’ve read that it sometimes snows at high points but does not last. Winters have the disadvantage of shorter days with early nightfall.
In any case, always prepare for rain, regardless of the weather forecast. We did the trail in autumn, and although it did not rain on the day we did the Ogumotori-goe, it rained torrentially on the day of the Kogumotorigo-goe and the day before. So, we ended up not hiking that day.
Who can do the Kumano Kodo
This is a trail without major technical difficulties, except for the issue of climbing and descending on old, slippery stone stairs. As we mentioned, the trail is also perfectly marked. So, you don’t need to be a pro at trails or mountain trails.
On the other hand, it is a very tough route with significant accumulated elevation, which may cause some leg pains for the following days. Therefore, being in good physical shape and preferably used to long walks is necessary. After all, we are talking about hiking for around 8 hours!
People with mobility difficulties will not be able to do the route. Children, only if they are used to this type of effort.
What to bring for the Kumano Kodo?
The section of the Kumano Kodo we are talking about here is just one day, but it is part of a much longer network of routes. If you are planning a multi-day hike, you should be especially careful about what you bring.
To do the Ogumotori-goe, we recommend bringing:
- Lightweight backpack to carry everything else;
- Rain gear (raincoat and umbrella at least);
- Hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen – most of the route is shaded, but there are still some sections in the sun;
- Hiking poles – if you have them, they are ideal; otherwise, don’t forget to take the bamboo sticks available at the start of the trail. They are immensely useful for the long climbs and descents of this path;
- Mobile phone and/or camera;
- Water bottle – Take water with you. We recommend about 1.5 liters per person! There are vending machines at the rest point, but you never know what might happen that day;
- Physical map of the route;
- Small flashlight in case you are delayed;
- Yen – Take cash with you. Most places in these small villages do not accept cards, so cash is still king here!
Safety on the Ogumotori-goe trail
Japan is an extremely safe country, and this region is no exception. In fact, it would be extremely unlucky to experience any issues regarding personal safety, assaults, or scams on the Kumano Kodo. Moreover, one of the things we liked most about this route was the total absence of crowds and even the rare sighting of other hikers.
As we mentioned, getting lost is also difficult because everything is well-signposted.
One situation to be aware of is falling and, especially, sprains. The route involves climbing and descending many old, smooth, damp stone stairs, which can lead to slips, stumbles, and falls.
So, we recommend bringing good hiking shoes and poles and always being very careful. And, of course, always start early to avoid the risk of nightfall before finishing.
Lastly, you might see some animals during the route, some of which are venomous, namely the mamushi snake and the mukade centipede.
How to get to the trailhead?
As we mentioned, we started the trail in Nachisan and finished in Koguchi, but we will explain how to get to both, as it is possible to do it in either direction.
The best way to get to Nachisan and Koguchi depends a lot on where you decide to spend the night, so we will briefly explain the most likely places, Kii-Katsura, Shingu, and Hongu.
How to get to Nachisan?
Getting to Nachisan from Kii-Katsura is simple and the base for visiting Nachisan. Just take the bus from the main station in town, which is next to the train station.
From Shingu, you need to take the bus or train to Kii-Katsura and then the bus mentioned above.
It’s a bit more difficult from Hongu, as you must take three buses: first, from Hongu to Shingu, and then follow the instructions above.
The best way to get to Kii-Katsura and Shingu is, undoubtedly, by train from Osaka. This follows the coast, offering some very beautiful views. Unfortunately, it takes more than 4 hours as the distance is still long and has many stops. Moreover, it is quite expensive.
Returning from Nachisan is done exactly the same way.
How to get to Koguchi?
Getting to Koguchi is a bit more complicated than Nachisan, but it is possible, as public transportation in Japan is very efficient, though sometimes complex.
To get to Koguchi, you always need to go to Kanmaru but note that there are only five buses throughout the day, so you must consider this when planning the trip.
From Hongu to Koguchi, you need to take the bus that runs the Hongu-Shingu route and get off at Kanmaru. In Kanmaru, take the bus to Koguchi.
From Shingu, the situation is very similar, so you take the bus that runs the reverse route between Shingu and Hongu, get off at Kanmaru, and take the bus to Koguchi.
Finally, from Kii-Katsura to Koguchi, you need to take the bus or train to Shingu, then take the bus to Hongu, and get off at Kanmaru. Finally, as always, take the bus to Koguchi.
Where to stay when doing the trail?
Since Ogumotori-goe is part of a much larger pilgrimage set, the best places to stay will depend greatly on each person’s hiking itinerary. That is, whether you will do only this hike, if you will hike for several days, and where.
If you only do the Ogumotori-goe, the ideal place to stay is Kii-Katsura, as train access is very easy from Osaka. The city has plenty of accommodations and options for relaxing after the trail. We chose this option, and we did not regret it; we loved the place we stayed.
This small accommodation offers typical Japanese rooms with futons on tatami floors. If you have never tried it, this is also an opportunity to see what traditional Japanese rooms are like. Despite the low price, Ayado Hana also has a private onsen that can be used for free; you must book your preferred time slot when you arrive. It is quite simple but very pleasant after a day of hiking.
Lastly, this accommodation has the great advantage of being a one-minute walk from the train and bus stations, which is extremely convenient for those traveling by public transport.
Note: Since it is a full-day hike, we highly recommend staying for two days. Although it is theoretically possible to leave on the day of the hike, you will be very tired and will not enjoy the onsen.
However, if you are doing a multi-day hike, it is best to stay the previous night in Kii-Katsura and after the hike in Koguchi. Although we do not know the accommodation personally, we have heard very good things about Minshuku Momofuku.
If you cannot book in Koguchi, the best alternatives are Kii-Katsura and the onsens near Hongu. The J-hoppers hostel is very well-known and popular there because, in addition to being a good hostel, it also gives access to a private onsen.
Walking the Ogumotori-goe trail is a unique experience that combines physical challenges with a deep immersion in Japanese culture and history. Whether you are an experienced pilgrim or an adventurer seeking new landscapes, this trail will surely leave unforgettable memories.
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