It’s a city in Northern Italy that Italians secretly crown as their food capital – and it’s not Rome or Naples.
Nestled between Florence and Venice, it’s just an hour by train from either city, while Rome is a four-hour drive to the south. With a population of around 400,000 (1 million in the metro area), it’s Italy’s 7th largest city – lively, historic, and full of energy.
Famous for its incredible cuisine, stunning medieval architecture, and vibrant young crowd, this city is a must-know for anyone exploring Italy beyond the usual tourist spots.
Let’s discover why Italians call it their true food capital.
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Why Bologna is Italy’s True Food Capital – and More
Before anything else, Bologna is most famous for its food, earning it the nickname “la Grassa” (the Fat One). As the capital of Emilia-Romagna, the city sits at the heart of Italy’s Food Valley, home to some of the country’s finest ingredients and culinary traditions. Think tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini, mortadella, Parmesan cheese, Parma ham, Culatello salami, and balsamic vinegar from Modena – many of these originate here or in nearby towns.
While Bologna’s towers, porticoes, and legendary university draw visitors, it’s the food scene that truly sets the city apart, making it the real culinary capital of Italy – and the reason Italians don’t argue about Rome or Naples.
Ragu and Bolognese Sauce
The city’s most iconic dish is tagliatelle al ragù. Authentic Bolognese ragu is slow-cooked with onion, celery, carrot, white wine, milk, a touch of tomato, and finely chopped meat. Unlike the internationally known spaghetti alla Bolognese, you won’t find this dish traditionally served with spaghetti in Bologna.
Tortellini
Tortellini, the small stuffed pasta shaped like Venus’ navel, also originates from Bologna (and nearby Modena). Traditional fillings include a mix of pork, prosciutto, mortadella, cheese, egg, and nutmeg, and it’s typically served in broth (tortellini in brodo). Larger versions, called tortelloni, are also common, sometimes filled with ricotta, spinach, or parsley.
Mortadella
Bologna is the birthplace of mortadella, one of Italy’s most famous cured meats. Made from finely ground pork with at least 15% pork fat and traditionally seasoned with black pepper, it’s usually served in thin slices, perfect for sandwiches or snacks. Known in the U.S. as Baloney, Bologna’s mortadella is a world apart from its American counterpart.
University of Bologna
Bologna’s University, sometimes called “la Dotta” (the learned one), is one of the city’s defining features. Alma Mater Studiorum, its official name, is the world’s oldest university in continuous operation, founded in 1088 by a guild of students.
The university shaped Bologna forever, attracting people from across Italy and Europe. Its alumni include writers and artists like Dante Alighieri, Petrarch, and Erasmus, four popes, scientists like Marconi and Copernicus, and even Enzo Ferrari.
Today, it has over 85,000 students, including 5,000 international students, across 11 schools and campuses in Cesena, Forlì, Ravenna, and Rimini. The university is especially renowned for its medical school; visitors can explore the anatomical theatre in the Archiginnasio, the former main campus.
Fun fact: The first woman to earn a university degree, Bettisia Gozzadini, also taught here.
La Rossa – the Red
Bologna is also known as “la Rossa” (the Red). Originally, this referred to the red rooftops and brick buildings of the historic center. To appreciate it fully, climb one of the city’s towers – a breathtaking sea of red rooftops awaits.
Later, after WWII, the nickname also reflected Bologna’s political leaning, as the city was considered a left-leaning stronghold.
Towers
Bologna’s nickname “la Turrita” (the towered) comes from its many medieval towers, built between the 12th and 13th centuries. These stone towers, some reaching 97 meters, were initially defensive structures but also a status symbol – the taller the tower, the more powerful the family.
Over 100 towers once dotted Bologna, impressive enough that Dante mentioned them in the Inferno. Today, about 20 remain, including the famous Twin Towers: Asinelli (97 m) and Garisenda, Italy’s most leaning medieval tower. Other notable towers include Azzoguidi (61 m), Prendiparte (60 m), Scappi (39 m), Uguzzoni (32 m), Guidozagni, and Galluzzi.
Porticoes
Bologna’s porticoes stretch over 62 km, covering streets, squares, and walkways. Built in wood, brick, stone, or reinforced concrete, they originally expanded living spaces during the university boom.
Over time, porticoes became social and commercial hubs, offering shelter from rain, snow, or sun, and today remain a defining architectural symbol of Bologna. In 2021, UNESCO recognized the porticoes as a World Heritage site, praising them as “an expression and element of Bologna’s urban identity.”
Famous Landmarks
Bologna is filled with notable landmarks:
- Twin Towers: Asinelli and Garisenda, leaning medieval icons.
- Via San Luca: An 8 km urban hike entirely under porticoes leading to the Church of San Luca.
- Piazza Maggiore: The city’s central square with the Neptune Fountain.
- San Petronio Basilica: A partially unfinished but impressive church.
- Archiginnasio: Former main building of Alma Mater Studiorum, housing the anatomical theatre.
- Quadrilatero: Historic market area perfect for tasting Bologna’s food.
Jazz
Bologna may surprise music lovers. The city hosts prestigious jazz festivals and has its own Jazz Walk of Fame in the Quadrilatero, honoring legends like Miles Davis and Chet Baker.
Every September, the La Strada del Jazz Festival animates streets, squares, and alleyways with live music, adding yet another layer to Bologna’s vibrant cultural scene.
Forget Rome and Naples – Bologna is Italy’s true food capital. From ragu and tortellini to mortadella and Parmesan, the city’s culinary scene is unmatched.
But Bologna isn’t just about food: its towers, porticoes, historic university, and lively streets make it a city full of charm and surprises. Whether you’re climbing a tower, strolling under porticoes, or enjoying a traditional dish, Bologna is a feast for all senses.