We Slept on an Active Volcano to Watch it Erupt – and you can too

We spent the night on Acatenango Volcano with a front-row view of Fuego erupting under the stars. It’s one of the most intense adventures we’ve ever had, and it made us understand what George Mallory meant when he famously said, “Because it’s there.”

Most hikers take two days to climb Acatenango, stopping overnight at Base Camp. And honestly, that’s the best way to do it – you get to watch the eruptions at night, rest, and really enjoy the experience. Yes, you can hike up and down in a single day, but it’s grueling, rushed, and you’ll miss the magic.

In this guide, we’ll share everything you need to know about climbing Acatenango to watch Fuego erupt – from tour options and what to pack, to where to stay, and what the climb actually feels like.

The hike to the top has two parts:

• First, from the village of La Soledad (2,300–2,400 m) to Base Camp (3,600 m), which is approximately 6.5 km and features a climb of 1,200 meters.
• Then, from Base Camp to the summit (Cumbre), just under 4,000 m. Although it may be shorter, the steep slope, volcanic sand, wind, and altitude make it challenging.

Acatenango and Fuego Volcanoes

At 3,976 meters, the Acatenango volcano is the third-highest peak in Guatemala and Central America (excluding Mexico). That’s why reaching the top is in itself a unique achievement for many people.

In addition, the views from there are absolutely fabulous as we can see the various volcanoes surrounding it (Agua, Atitlán, Fuego, San Pedro, Pacaya, among others), Lake Atitlán, and several cities such as Antigua and Guatemala City. These are some of the most famous landmarks in Guatemala.

However, the biggest attraction of the Acatenango climb is the Fuego Volcano. Fuego is one of the world’s most active volcanoes, constantly erupting and producing explosive activity. Every 15 or 20 minutes, there is an explosion where you can see smoke, ash, and volcanic rocks coming from the top of it.

During the day, you can only see the smoke and ashes, but the show is much better at dusk. The absence of light allows us to see the incandescent lava flying through the air and flowing down the volcano. It’s really remarkable.

If you want to see an active volcano and feel its explosions up close, this trail to Acatenango is probably one of the best options. It’s challenging and cold for sure, but it’s feasible for most people, and there’s a near guarantee that Fuego will erupt all day and night.

Good to know: The Acatenango itself is considered an active volcano, with several eruptions in the 20th century. The last one occurred in 1972, and the next one is impossible to predict, either when it will happen or if it will happen at all.

Climbing the Acatenango Volcano – general information

Best company to climb the Acatenango Volcano

In our experience, based on our research both online and in person, the tours are globally identical. The climb remains the same; they all stay at the base camp and primarily use local guides (although the owners may not). Thus, each agency offers a service that is quite similar. Plus, they all offer Lunch, Dinner, and Breakfast the next day.

The significant differences lie in the tents, borrowed materials, group sizes, whether the guides speak English, and the hikers themselves. Prices also vary widely, ranging from 300Q (38€) to over 100 Euros per person (2022 prices)

When choosing an operator, it is essential to confirm that they have fixed tents and sleeping bags at the base camp. Most do, but you don’t want to haul it upstairs. It is also essential to confirm that the price includes entry to the National Park, which at the time we took the tour, cost 50Q per person.

After speaking with several agencies and reviewing their offerings and prices, we ultimately chose Barco, which proved to be one of the most affordable options. Still, it is also a 100% locally owned operator, which is essential in supporting the local economy.

Our experience climbing the Acatenango volcano with Barco

Because it was so inexpensive, we were a little wary of our choice, but after the climb, we would choose this operator again. The only negative point was the disorganization and initial delay in Antigua, as we spent more than 2 hours collecting our colleagues, picking up meals, and choosing materials.

Everything went smoothly from then on, especially from the start of the climb. The guides only spoke Spanish, but that’s not a problem for us. The food was more than enough. The borrowed materials (coats, sleeping bags, hats, and gloves) had seen better days, but served their purpose perfectly. This is an important point because, at night, it is extremely cold at the top of the volcano.

Is it possible to climb Acatenango independently?

Yes, it is possible, but we strongly advise against it unless you have all the necessary equipment and extensive experience in this type of activity. Note that it is extremely cold at the top, so it is necessary to bring warm clothes, a sleeping bag, and a tent, among other essentials.

Climbing to the Base Camp

One step at a time was perhaps the thought that most occurred to us on this journey. The whole ascent is hard, very hard, in fact. Especially for those not used to climbing volcanoes at 4000 meters in altitude. The trail is always uphill, and the accumulation of altitude, the almost sandy terrain, and the weight of backpacks make everything even more challenging.

But fear not, you don’t have to be an athlete to reach base camp. Or even to the top. There is no rush. There’s more than enough time, and if you don’t do it in 4 hours, you can do it in 5 or 6 hours – the volcano is not going anywhere.

Our trek started around 11:45 am in La Soledad, at an altitude of 2300 meters. One of the characteristics of this trail is that it begins with a challenging section, featuring a steep slope on sandy soil that lasts between 20 minutes and half an hour. In this section, we remain on rural trails and continue to ascend until we reach a small café. There you can have a drink and even eat something.

After a 10-minute break, we continued climbing, of course. But this time, with many stairs, we were exhausted. About 40 minutes later, we arrived at the second resting point, the entrance to the National Park.

Here we have to register and pay for the park entrance. We took advantage of the stop to have lunch and lighten the load from our backpacks. We are already above 2700 meters of altitude.

Upon entering the park, we also enter a new trail stage, moving from a rural/agricultural landscape to a cloud forest. The trail continues to climb significantly, but it becomes a little less challenging without the stairs and the sandy volcanic terrain. On the other hand, the altitude starts to take its toll, and breathing is more difficult.

About half an hour later, and already above 3000 meters, the landscape changes again. We transition from the cloud forest to a pine forest, and as we continue the ascent, this forest becomes increasingly less dense until the trees begin to thin out, leaving only shrubs and undergrowth behind.

At 15:20 and at an altitude of about 3,450 meters, we reach a viewpoint where we have another stop to rest and hydrate. From here, there is an abrupt change in the trail. We continue to rise, but now the slope is much smaller. After everything we’ve climbed, it seems almost flat…

After another 40 minutes, we hear Volcano Fuego for the first time, and shortly after, we see it in front of us. At 16:20, we have one last effort to make. There is a final, steep ascent of 2 or 3 minutes on volcanic soil that resembles sand. After so much effort, each step hurts, but it’s only a few minutes, and eventually, we see the Base Camp and our tent. First goal completed successfully!

The Barco tent is situated in a perfect spot, over 3,600 meters above sea level, directly in front of the Fuego volcano. From there, we can watch the spectacle that Fuego puts on.

Going to Fuego Volcano

Nearly all operators offer the opportunity to go to the Fuego volcano to see and feel all its power from even close by. Since we were completely exhausted, we decided it wasn’t a good idea to do so. It seemed much more appealing to us to sit at sunset, facing the volcano, and watch the eruptions.

However, those who still have energy and physical stamina have this option available to them. This part of the tour has an extra cost, which varies from company to company.

From what we were able to determine, visiting Fuego involves traveling back down approximately 300 meters through Acatenango and then ascending another 300 meters. In addition to the physical effort, this consists in navigating the trail at night, which is particularly challenging due to the imminent nightfall.

The Fuego Volcano show and the night at Base Camp

As you can see from the photos, the view from Base Camp is fabulous, whether day or night. From there, we see Volcano Agua, which is often overlooked due to the eruptions of Fuego, as well as the presence of several small towns and villages in Guatemala, and Antigua Guatemala, from which we departed.

As night falls, the Fuego eruptions become increasingly visible and spectacular. The entire trail, the views, and the experience are memorable, but seeing an active volcano right before us is an unforgettable experience. It’s worth all the effort to get there. Besides being the highlight of our trip to Guatemala, it is also one of the most spectacular we’ve seen.

However, at nightfall, the temperature also drops suddenly, and the wind makes it feel even colder. Fortunately, it is possible to make a fire to warm us up while we dine on Spaghetti with tomato sauce and drink hot chocolate. In the end, we have a little surprise for dessert: marshmallows to heat over the fire.

Climb to the top of Acatenango – Cumbre

The climb to the top of Acatenango is part of the tour, but in practice, it is optional, as many people choose to stay at Base Camp. In our group, only five (including us) out of 13 people went.

The ascent to the summit begins at 4:00 a.m., still in the night. The purpose is to see the sunrise up there; for that reason, it is done during the night, a good part of it with complete darkness. In total, it’s only about 350 meters of altitude gain, but it was probably the most challenging climb we’ve ever done.

The altitude, sandy soil, wind, and cold make everything more complicated, but in the end, we are rewarded with majestic 360-degree views. It is truly a panoramic view. We see Fuego for sure, but also 5 or 6 other volcanoes, Lake Atitlán, and they say that on days with excellent visibility, you can even see the Pacific Ocean.

Unfortunately, staying up there for a long time is impossible. It is very windy practically every day, which makes the low temperature seem even lower. You can feel the cold penetrating even with several layers of warm clothes. The good news is that from here, it’s always downhill. The descent is much faster and easier, and in 30 to 45 minutes, we return to Base Camp.

Descending the Acatenango

After a quick breakfast and a few more Fuego explosions, it’s time to head down. We’re going precisely the same way, so it’s straight downhill. The descent is much faster, but you must be careful not to slip and fall, ruining the trip with a sprain or worse.

Despite some minor setbacks, we departed Base Camp at 08:00. By around 11:00, we had reached the beginning of the trail, and by 12:00, we had returned to Antigua and checked into our accommodation.

We were ready to rest for the rest of the day and go to sleep very early, as the adventure had been memorable, but we hadn’t slept at all.

Best time of year to hike the Acatenango trail

To the best of our knowledge, this climb can be completed throughout the year. However, it is definitely better to do it during the dry season, from November to April. Both weather and visibility are generally better.

However, we must point out that the weather in the high mountains is entirely unpredictable and changes very quickly. Besides, it can be good weather in Antigua and lousy weather in the mountains. Or the reverse.

If you have time and flexibility, it is ideal to follow the weather forecast and try to go on a day when rain and fog are not expected.

Who can hike the trail?

This is a pretty challenging trail; it’s really the toughest we’ve ever done. However, anyone accustomed to taking long walks or engaging in physical exercise will be able to do it. It is not at all necessary to be a professional athlete (we surely aren’t). You will likely have sore legs for the next few days, but that’s about it.

As we mentioned at the beginning, if you don’t do it within 4 hours, you’ll do it within 5 or 6. The mountain isn’t going anywhere, and you have the whole night to see the volcano erupt. Lastly, if you feel the climb has been challenging enough for you, you can stay at base camp and not climb all the way to the top. Although very satisfying, it is not mandatory at all.

That said, it is not recommended for children or the elderly.

What to pack for the ascent to the Acatenango Volcano

This is a two-day trek, with the night spent in a tent on an active volcano at an altitude of almost 4,000 meters. Therefore, you must be very careful about what you take and what you truly need. Please don’t take more than you need; you’ll have to carry it up and down the descent. All agencies will explain in detail what you need, but here is what we took and what we think is essential:

• Plenty of water (minimum 3L per person) – note that all agencies ask you to take an extra liter to contribute to the meals you take at base camp. In some cases, the agency supplies the water, as was the case with Barco, but you should always confirm.
• Extra snacks – the food we received is more than enough, but it’s always good to take some cookies, nuts, or sweets to have on the way up/down.
• Hiking shoes – it is essential to wear comfortable shoes, and above all, those with a good grip, so as not to slip.
• Comfortable and Warm Clothing – Bring warm, layered clothing.
• Rain jacket in case it rains.
• Winter coat, gloves, hats, socks;
• If the weather is good, we recommend bringing light, comfortable hiking clothes for the climb. Warm clothing will be needed at night and on the last climb.
• Sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen;
• Head torch for the climb to Fuego and the top of Acatenango. It is possible to use a cell phone, but it is much more convenient not to have it in your hand constantly.
• Walking pole – it’s convenient, but you don’t need to worry about this, as people are selling wooden poles at the beginning of the climb.
• Camera and cell phone, as there are plenty of opportunities to take beautiful pictures.
• Backpack as small as possible to carry all this;

Good to know: Agencies lend or rent (depending on the agency) practically all the material you need to take. From warm coats to backpacks and flashlights. Check what each agency offers, as you may need it. In our case, we had virtually nothing to take (only a backpack and pants), and even then, we went up because the agency lent us coats, gloves, and hats.

As always, please refrain from littering. Bring everything you take with you.

How to get to the trail?

The trail starts in La Soledad, next to the cemetery. However, this is not a concern as it is a trail done with guides and through an agency. Some agencies will pick you up at the hotel, as was our case; others ask hikers to visit their facilities in Antigua and depart from there.

In any case, the center of Antigua is relatively small, so you can quickly get from one place to another, either by Tuk-tuk or on foot. It’s just a matter of confirming with the agency when booking the tour.

Where to stay when climbing the Acatenango Volcano

The best place to stay is definitely in Antigua, preferably very close to the center. There are numerous accommodation options available for all budgets. Check the map below.

Climbing the Acatenango Volcano was one of the toughest physical challenges we’ve ever done. However, reaching the top and seeing the world from above also brought us one of the most pleasing accomplishments we’ve ever felt. Additionally, it’s not every day that you see a volcano erupting.

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